Need powder recommendations

Will

Well-Known Member
I’m looking to try and get to the 2300-2400fps area with my howa 308 using the Mihec 308 hunter bullet weighing 160gr.

I’ve got my brass prepped and now I’m to the part of picking a powder. I don’t have any 4831 that Waco is currently using so I figured I would try a different route for now.

The slowest rifle powders that I currently have are Hodgdon superformance (which has been useless so far in my testing with jacketed) IMR 4350, win 748 and win 760.

I can’t find any load data for any of these powders in 308. Anyone have any recommendations?

Or do I need to make a run to the gun shop and pick up a slower powder?

My plan is to load a ladder test to get an idea of the velocity I’m working with before loading up a lot of test rounds.
 

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
Oh boy, you are gonna be buried with info from Ian and fiver.
My suggestion is to ask them lots of questions and pay attention to what they say. If not sure then ask questions.

I think 4350 would be a decent starting point. THe Win 760 wouldn't be bad either.

Alloy choice is going to be important as is brass prep and sizing/seating operations.
 

Will

Well-Known Member
I’ve already picked Ian’s brain quite a bit along with reading all the basement articles and Waco’s threads.

I’ve hit the point where I have to start shooting some to try and learn something.

I’d say I will definitely have to make some alloy modifications. The 308 hunting bullets that I had were cast about a year ago out of 50/50 COWW/SOWW and dropped into a bucket of ice water out of the mold. I know I didn’t heat treat them to get them more uniform but I originally cast them for the 300 blackout and they were already checked and lubed.
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
remember barrel length has a huge impact on velocity with the slow powders.
4350 start at 45 and come up 47 should be on the upper and with a 22-24" barrel.
rl-19 same loads.
4831 same loads.

wait.... what. why?
 

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
Try those bullets. Might work?
Start at 100 and keep good records.
 

Ian

Notorious member
I don't know why but I find that rifle simply gorgeous. And it's a Howa. That's something I'd actually go out and buy.

Anyways, start at around 43-44 grains of 760 (Same as 414. There's data everywhere, use JACKETED loads from your manuals) and plan on working up to around the same 47 that Fiver said. Somewhere in there groups will get tight, and fall apart again as your alloy can only do so much, but it will do exactly what you want it to around 2400.

BTW, aged a year, you'll be surprised how the variances in "hardness" tend to even out, unless you were just totally sloppy in your quench timing.
 

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
And above all else POST YOUR RESULTS! Even the poor groups teach us something.
 

Will

Well-Known Member
They should be pretty consistent that was my first run using the ladle 2 molds to keep a rhythm
 

Will

Well-Known Member
I’m sure there will be plenty of those Brad.

The rifle is consistent sub moa rifle with jacketed
01D6EDA3-39DD-44EF-AABC-CC69714EB012.jpeg

Speaking of that do I need to clean the bore with a good copper solvent before starting with cast.
 

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
That is good, tells us a couple things. One, the rifle is capable. Two, you are capable.
 
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Will

Well-Known Member
I don't know why but I find that rifle simply gorgeous. And it's a Howa. That's something I'd actually go out and buy.

Anyways, start at around 43-44 grains of 760 (Same as 414. There's data everywhere, use JACKETED loads from your manuals) and plan on working up to around the same 47 that Fiver said. Somewhere in there groups will get tight, and fall apart again as your alloy can only do so much, but it will do exactly what you want it to around 2400.

BTW, aged a year, you'll be surprised how the variances in "hardness" tend to even out, unless you were just totally sloppy in your quench timing.

Ian I was pretty apprehensive about buying a Japanese made rifle but I really like the look and feel of it. The camo and dark earth cerakote make the rifle.
 

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
My new Win 92 was made in Japan and I must say they did a fine job. Sounds like Howa is getting similar results.
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
I got a Japanese made shotgun I have consistently shot 200+ rounds a week out of for a few years now
[@ 10K a year]
it was made in 1991 and was shot just about as much before I got it.
I'm okay with Jap. made guns.

I think I would set my sights down just a bit to get started with that bullet.
2200 to get going would be more my starting goal.
it's not a rifle issue it's a design issue. [I'm pretty sure that is one of Bob's designs]
 

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
It is, I am quite certain of that. Mine is from MP moulds. I think NOE made something similar.
 
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F

freebullet

Guest
Ahh, one of my favorites...and the bullets in my avatar.

If your using the hp pin, why so fast? I run very similar alloy in 3030 @18-1900, works splendid on paper, jugs, & deer. With the speed your after I'd make them flat points. At the speed ya want the hp isn't necessary & might blow them apart on game.

Would be inclined to try 760 & 4350..not in the same load tho:embarrassed:

Ime the flat point is more accurate at high & low end. In fact, the flat nose without the check is something special over a dab of titegroup.

I noticed the varget...37-8ish & work up, but I'd want the flat nose & a little harder alloy.
I'd bet the sst load would be a literal one hole affair @40-41gr.
Looking forward to your tests.:cool:
 
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Will

Well-Known Member
I’m wanting the velocity more for trajectory then anything. Dad and I bought a bunch of steel plates to put out at our shooting range from 100-400 yards.

And to be honest I want a good challenge. I’m sure I’ll probably do lots of failing but that’s pretty much the only way I learn anything.

When I worked up loads with the SST’s I hit pressure signs before finding the next accuracy node. I plan on using my tikka T3X 308 for a jacketed rifle anyways.

I went ahead and loaded the ammo last night but hasn’t read the part about shooting for 2200 FPS before loading. I’m afraid the length I have to seat these out to is going to be the problem.

1C6BFF9B-2CCA-494C-92F3-1C878047F639.jpeg