Need powder recommendations

RBHarter

West Central AR
I'd go with 4350 also .
Yes get as much of the copper out as you can . I had 3 that it was a huge deal in and 3 that it should have been but didn't matter at all .......

I've had a couple of long throats . At the end of it all as long as the front band was close to touching neither the 308 nor 06' really cared . Twist will likely kill the load before jump does . The 10" twist in my rifles seems to run out about 2150 fps but that's my fit/alloy/cull/etc .
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
it's mostly bullet design and alloy that kill you long before the twist rate.
the twist rate just magnifies all the damage you done before you got to the muzzle.
control the damage,, control the magnification.
 

Ian

Notorious member
it's mostly bullet design and alloy that kill you long before the twist rate.
the twist rate just magnifies all the damage you done before you got to the muzzle.
control the damage,, control the magnification.

High-velocity with cast bullets, complete overview and instructions, in 36 words.

BAM.
 
F

freebullet

Guest
Will,
I didn't mean any negativity about the group you posted at all. Damn fine shooting. Just that there is some real effective magic closer to 40gr, and is perfectly adequate to at least 300 on p'dogs to deer.

I loaded some for the sks way out like that. They functioned fine, but weren't as accurate as loaded to the crimp groove. Don't be afraid to try, that bullet doesn't mind a little jump.

I think fiver is right about 2200, unless using the flat point & heat treating ....then maybe more is possible.

Good luck either way.
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
failing is part of the deal.
it makes us ask why?
and what,,, as In what do I need to make this happen.
 

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
failing is part of the deal.
it makes us ask why?
and what,,, as In what do I need to make this happen.
Precisely. We learn more from what doesn't work than what does.
Failure means we pushed the envelope. Failure means we explored new grounds.
 

Will

Well-Known Member
I plan to pursue this until I find something that works even if it means sending Tom at accurate molds some of my money.

Next week I plan to cast some more of the 308 hunter bullet so I have a good stash of them put back. While I’ve got the lead hot I’m going to go ahead and fill up a couple cases and do a pound cast.

Today I ordered a hornady match grade neck sizing die so after the pound cast is complete I’ll be able to get the proper bushing for it. Believe it or not I didn’t have a neck sizing die for 308. I always just use my headspace comparator and push the should back about .002” when loading jacketed ammo.

I used the RCBS 30-30 cowboy expander die on the necks and it seemed to do a good job although I may have to buy another size stem for it later.

I have to work for at least the next 7 days and it seems like we get rain every day here lately so I’m not sure when I’ll get a chance to let these fly.

Also about a month ago I dropped by Dads and he surprised me with a magnetospeed v3. So I’ll have to figure it out too along this venture.
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
I think I see some of us sending you some dusty half ass lubed bullets here shortly.
 

Will

Well-Known Member
I would gladly take you all up on it and be glad to pay you for them.

It makes buying a mold easier when you know what your buying works.
 

Will

Well-Known Member
I have another question to pick your guys brain about and I realize I’m probably about to get blown away with info.

I am out of my last batch of Satan’s lube which I’ve used for the last couple of years. So far this lube has served me well for my needs.

Should I just whip up another batch of Satan’s lube or try white labels 2500 or 2700?

Or make up a whole new lube? Keep in mind I never did dive into the microwax lubes so I don’t have the necessary ingredients around.
 

waco

Springfield, Oregon
Besides the bullets Lamar sent me, I use Lar's 2500+ with good results. Just my 2 cents...
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
the 666 is a bit soft the +1 version if better, but still soft especially in the heat.
I'd go with something else.

my preferred viscosity is a lube similar to play dough in feel, with a smooth feather to the edges, and consistency that stays the same over a broad temp range.
I don't really get axle wrapped about ingredients I am more concerned about the viscosity and the above.
 

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
I made some Ben's Red but added about 15% extra wax all as micro wax. I like how it made the lube more cohesive.
My biggest issue is having too many lubes on hand and never knowing what I want to use.
 

Will

Well-Known Member
Yeah that’s the problem I was not wanting to get into Brad.
That’s why I was just considering buying some from Lars. I’m already playing with all kinds of variables and don’t want to introduce another problem.
 

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
You can do worse than Ben's Red with a little extra wax. It works well in rifles and handguns. Might get a little soft in extreme heat but also will do well in cooled temps.
I used Lars's Carnuba Red for years. I still have a bunch. I got away from it due to cold barrel fliers below 50° F and the stickiness on some pistol rounds. Get a little on the outside of a 45 ACP round and it can give chambering problems.