Shotshells for Handgun Cartridges

Hawk

Well-Known Member
Okay I made the first one to the following specifications:
4 grains of Red Dot powder, which takes up a lot more space than I thought it would.
1 cardboard over powder wad,
80 grains of number 12 shot, which to my calculations estimates out to about 480 pieces of shot +/-, should do the trick!
2 cardboard over shot wads.
Taper crimped in place. Head spaces fine.
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It aint pretty, but it should be functional
Wads are about 0.20" thick.
I used 40 Smith & Wesson cases to cut them out of the Miller Lite cardboard box.
I used an even 80 grains of shot and it wound up needing two overshot wads to get barely flush with the case mouth.
I might could get away with two over powder wads and a little less shot, just to make sure i get a clean burn.
Since I live in the middle of a metroplex, I'll have to figure out somewhere that I can go to fire this one to test it out on a plastic jug, as Ian suggested. If I go to the deer lease, it may be next week.
Just a first attempt and I'll probably make a couple more to test.
I may need to adjust powder and shot weights after I've fired one.
 

S Mac

Sept. 10, 2021 Steve left us. You are missed.
Should be a fun experiment. Guess I'm spoilt, I can load one and walk 80 yards to test.
 
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Rally

NC Minnesota
I never had much luck with thin cardboard wads in .38 spl. Seemed like they burned up, so I used cardboard shotshell wads (.135 I think) then #9 shot, then thin layer of latex caulking, then a red piece of notebook paper. I let them sit overnight to allow caulking to dry, then put a slight roll crimp on them. The notebook paper made the caulking less messy and gave me a place to write the size shot I had in them. I was using 3 grs of BE in the .38 Spl case. Killed a few snakes with the load in NC, but used them mostly for shooting starlings and pigeons in outbuildings/ barns. I haven't had any loaded in quite awhile, may have to load a few shortly.
 

CWLONGSHOT

Well-Known Member
A drop or so of wax from a candle might be the ticket for ya on that over shot wad to hold her in place. I have used that in my 45Colt shot loads. I found cardboard topper was better then the gas check. But liked the gas check bottom.

CW
 
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Rally

NC Minnesota
Been thinking about this for a couple days. Why not use a shot/beeswax solution to fill the cartridge? Only draw back I can conjure up is it could get kinda messy with a revolver, at the barrel cylinder gap. Even then, who is going to shoot that many it would be a problem? I don't have any poisonous snakes here, but I am thinking about using the ammo to shoot birds close range in out buildings or attics. As long as the over powder wad sealed well enough, that the beeswax didn't get past it before it solidified, I can't see why it wouldn't work. May have to vary the beeswax some to make sure it dried the correct consistency. Maybe the patterns would be too tight for snakes, but I picture the concept giving a little more range, for my application, than what I made before, especially in a short lever gun.
If a metal dipper was made for the correct amount of shot/ wax, like a .38 spl case, cut down with wire handle. A small sauce pan with a wax/ shot solution at liquid temp. Dredge the shot out through the solution, with the dipper, and pour directly into the awaiting primed/ charged/wad case. As long as the metal dipper stayed in the shot/ wax solution, it should pour fairly easily, tedious perhaps, but workable, and no need for a over shot wad. Might be easier to put the shot in the case first, then fill it up with the beeswax solution.
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
yep.
I have had harder lube ride a bullet down the barrel of my black powder pistol and glob onto the target.
if you got a slug of wax/shot made up it will act and shoot like a slug.
I have done it with paraffin in shot shells before too to make some cheap slugs from bird shot.

if you want to tighten your patterns you have some options.
speed, buffer, and higher antimony shot.
or you could get closer.
 

Rally

NC Minnesota
I don't think it would come out solid if the beeswax solution was thin enough, especially from a 20" lever barrel. I'm thinking like the batch of Ben's red I scorched, then adding beeswax to get the consistency that will release. I'm sure paraffin would be too tough, and indeed stay as a solid, I've still got several boxes of "wax bullets" in inventory now. May still have to use an over-shot wad and slight roll crimp, but I'll see soon enough. I need to decide what diameter I want the wads, so I can order a punch and die from Unipunch for my punch press. I can get the wad material for free (cardboard liner between pallets and salt pellets), from a buddy that works at a Tractor Supply type store.

Lamar,
I haven't bought any soft shot in years, knowingly, been using mag or plated shot in all my field loads. Any questionable shot goes to my grandson to burn up shooting clays.
I can't always get closer either. Some old barns the hay loft is as close as I can get, and the grain silos are tall, although I have shot pigeons and starlings from the roofs of adjacent buildings. If the lofts are full of hay, that's when a shooter can get real strategic! LOL
Took the wife with today to check traps, and of course had to stop at a two family garage sale on the way home. They just happened to have a cute little pan w/lid, for the shot/ wax solution. $204626CE9-CE08-461A-B4C6-8589E9CED002.jpeg
 
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Ian

Notorious member
you have to consider why shot capsules and petal wads are used in the first place: Pattern control, gas seal, cushion, and in a rifled arm.....bore protection. Shot will lead a rifled bore something terrible without something to keep the shot from contacting the bore. I make my own wads out of milk jug material and make them extend out of the case like a bullet for maximum payload capacity. I also do it because I want to be able to shoot a snake with a couple of shot shots and then turn around and hit a pig at 40 yards with the next round in the cylinder.

Here was my contribution on the subject: http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?77286-Revolver-shot-loads-that-WORK!
 

trapper9260

Active Member
When I make up my shot shells ,I make my card from cracker boxes. I put two cards over the powder and then one over the shot. and use glue of it for the edge. As for worry about leading I do not have that problem. I learn this from another site to past a patch with JPW on it in the barrel and let it dry and then it will help with use of cast bullets and I found out with shot shells. What you do is make the barrel think it is coated already with the bullet lube . That is from how I understand it . and see that it works.
 
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Hawk

Well-Known Member
Gonna get to try out the 10MM snake shot loads tomorrow.
Anyone have a 8.5"x 11" rattle snake target they want to post in the target section?
I guess I can draw one, but I'd make you all laugh. I'm a terrible artist!
 

Ian

Notorious member
I just used and aiming dot and my imagination. In the real world you're gonna poke the muzzle as close to the snake's head as you dare and snap one off, so understanding your range and pattern density is the most important thing.
 

trapper9260

Active Member
This one is interesting It is almost like I load my shotshells. I just change a few things. I use cards I cut from cracker box and give me a idea to wax some of the cards and some not. Or use bullet lube on them then wax. Like put one plain card over the powder then one that is coated and then the shot and then one that is coated. I normal put 2 cards over the powder. and one over the shot. For what fiver posted.
 

dale2242

Well-Known Member
I made some Carpenter bee loads for my Contender 44 Mag.
Wads made from cardboard that comes with targets.
4 1/2 grs Bullseye, 2 card wads, fill nearly to the top with ground walnuts shell, 1 wad over the walnut shells, a heavy roll crimp and seal with clear nail polish.
Good for 6 ft max and won`t hurt lumber, paint, etc.