so waht ya doin today?

RBHarter

West Central AR
Nasty , ugly , crooked wood .
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Slow start today .... Had to fix a low ceiling joist and a high one . Got 6 of 36 courses at 19'9" . Not a good rate but I have a feel for it and the last 3 courses went way faster than the 1st 3 . Do not put 1× flooring on the ceiling . Actually it's not that bad , it's just that it's 12' off the floor ..
 
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Bret4207

At the casting bench in the sky. RIP Bret.
I live in an old "plank house", 1880's. It's kind of a weird post and beam style of building where they framed the house and then filled in the spaces where the wall would go with planks running horizontally and then another layer vertically. Doing some rebuilding and we came on some clear pine planks 12-14 foot long, 2 full inches thick and 16 to 18 inches wide. That was the "junk" used to build "cheap" houses back in the day. Of course it's full of nail holes, holes from wiring runs and plumbing, etc. If I had a barn full of it I'd be sitting pretty.

Some of the old mills I've been around have wood that will just take your breath away when you realize what you're looking at. One in my home town was partially sheathed in walnut! It was taken from the boxes the mill machinery came in, or so I was told. That was back in the teens or early 20's, so I wasn't around to see it. Full 1" boards a good 16-20 feet long and at least a foot wide. We used to get pallets there from a certain company, no clue what one, but the pallets were usually walnut. I still have a miniature bow saw I made to fit standard coping saw blades that was made from that walnut. Confession time- we used to break up the pallets and burn them for firewood!
 

Intheshop

Banned
Resto'd a 1790 house that predated TJ's Poplar Forest and is the adjoining property. TJ joint got swallowed up by a housing development but is still kicka$$.....

"My house" did not.... they still have 1000 acres. A National Trust house. Anyway.... in the original,we'll call it living room. The dado section under the "chair rail" is one board wide...... 27" wide,and in perfect condition, flat as a pool table. The dado wraps the room.... big honkin base,cap rail and apron, all with maybe 3 coats of paint.Along with floor,all original. We uncovered some brickwork on the front facade..... up on a pedimented center section. It had been "stucco'd" over. No biggy there except..... it was done when the house was built. The Flemish bond brickwork was completely finished, which you wouldn't do if it was to be covered. Besides being perfectly preserved it was important to the history of the state historical society in that it shows or demarcated that style change.

We did a full on resto on that pediment.... which has ALL the bells N whistles moulding wise. I had the whole front of the house covered with scaffolding and plastic draped with full forced air ventilation..... spent a year and a half there. Place was infested with groundhogs.....
 

RBHarter

West Central AR
That is to my knowledge the last of the red fir 3" T&G that was used in nearly every office and house of the original main base part of the World's Largest NAD . The mat'l would have been cut some time between June 1928-Dec 1929 .
This in a house now built about 1935 in a new addition in Nunley AR .
 

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
Learned something new today.
I got a 12x12 piece of 1045 plate. Looks like the piece was cut by a shear,doesn’t look like a sawn edge and clearly not flame cut.
Got a piece cut for a project and went to mill it square. Went fine until he mill got to the sheared edge. Dulled my endmill right off.
The edge was clearly hardened by whatever process was used to make the cut.

Looks like I need a carbide endmill for stuff like this, at least to get deep enough to get under the hardened portion.

Remade the part from 7075 and won’t look back. That stuff mills like nothing else.
 

KeithB

Resident Half Fast Machinist
Maybe plasma cut on a machine so the edge is smooth. There will be some squashing on one side/edge of the plate if it was sheared.
 

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
One edge has a definite taper into the cut.
I will try to get a photo tomorrow.
 

Ian

Notorious member
Knock it off with an angle grinder and try again with the end mill. If nothing else the heat from the grinder will temper the edge.
 

smokeywolf

Well-Known Member
You definitely have to get under a plasma cut edge, but a sheared edge can often be work-hardened and require carbide or powdered metal cutters. You may want to grind some of that edge away like Ian recommends or work the hardened edge off with a disc-sander and course abrasive.
 

Bret4207

At the casting bench in the sky. RIP Bret.
That is to my knowledge the last of the red fir 3" T&G that was used in nearly every office and house of the original main base part of the World's Largest NAD . The mat'l would have been cut some time between June 1928-Dec 1929 .
This in a house now built about 1935 in a new addition in Nunley AR .

"NAD"?
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
if it was cut, the shear forces would have changed the structure and grain of the metal for sure.

I think I'm going to bring the XCB mold in the house and give it a good hot water and Dawn bath to see if I can pull some more gunk out of the pores.
the wife is leaving here in a minute so I can use the kitchen sink.
 

Pistolero

Well-Known Member
As to old houses and the amazing chunks of wood they used. My parents rented a house in Spotsylvania
County, Va from about '77 until about '79 or so, while my Dad built a house on the lake near there to retire
to. I helped a lot and stayed in the rented house, built in 1812. Old federal style, two story, four rooms per
floor, wide center hall all the way thru, each floor, and a staircase in the central hall. Kitchen was an outbuilding
originally, they burned too often to be part of the house, and were too hot in summer. New kitchen was built into
a porch.
In any case, one really sunny winter day, I noticed that the approximately 30" high wainscotting, a dark, apparently
painted material that I had never paid attention to (plaster from that to the 12 ft or so ceilings), with very bright
direct sunlight showed wood grain from across the room. I got up and examined it closely. I am pretty sure that
it is walnut, darkened varnish on it, but ONE BOARD, 30" wide or more around each room. Yikes. We crawled under it
one time to see the framing. The main beam, 65 ft long, IIRC, was about 30" deep and 15 inches wide, oak, hand
hewn. The two central cross beams were notched into it, about 18" tall and 12" wide, also hand hewn oak.
Pine floor planking was about 6" wide per board, all original. Original fireplace still operated on one room, stoves
and panels in the others, we built a few fires in there. An amazing fireplace.

The fire box seemed way too small, and the hearth, flush with the floor, seemed too big. We looked at the
small slot for smoke to go up and the depth ( seemed only about 12" deep as max firebox depth) seemed
too small. With some trepidation, tempered by "the sure had to know what the hell they were doing
in those days", we lit a small fire. It drew perfectly. As we gained confidence, and the season grew colder,
we built larger fires, until it seemed as if half of the fire was "out in the room". I gave off excellent heat,
and never a trace of smoke going anywhere but up the flue. I once twisted a piece of newsprint into a sort
of torch, lit it and then blew it out, to make a smoke wand. Held 6 ft from the fire a few inches off the
floor, the smoke went straight horizontally for the full distance and then smoothly joined the fire and up the flue.
The really DID know how to make fireplaces in those days, too.

Sadly, but maybe for the best, the old house, absolutely 100% original from the 1812 time until 1980 or so, was
bought up and made in to a B&B. The current pix show what I take to be a gutted and redone interior, not a trace
of the original wood showing, all painted everything. Really nice, but sad to me after having seen it as it originally was
even though a good but 'down at the heels' at that time. When we were there, the library was filled with original books
some printed in the 1700s, in great condition. All gone now. They added a porch out front that was never there,
the original red painted copper roof seems to be gone (it was in perfect condition, soldered standing seams), and the
old chicken coop is now a guest house. Progress. "Preservation"...... which looks more like destruction to me.

Bill
 
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fiver

Well-Known Member
well a good wash and 2 more good heat cycles seems to have settled down the mold a bunch more.
I broke the edges again and have more control over how the mold pours, and it works better with a couple of different filling methods.

I about launched the old LEE 20 lb pot off the bench though.
dumb thing rarely drips, but the flow speed kept changing on me, fast,, slow, dribble,, good god make it stop.
it would run how I wanted it to for 10-12 pours then slow down then it'd overshoot.
then I'd chase it for a bit, it would settle down in a new spot, then start again.
aggravating the hell out of me all day.
I could see it if I had a bunch of junk alloy or inclusions or something, stupid pot just didn't want to play nice.
 

Ian

Notorious member
Bill, you described the fabulous fireplace design of Count Rumford. It is the ONLY design which ever worked, and they are almost non-existent. All others are horrible abortions in comparison. The secret is the shallow draft, floor level hearth, flue the width of the opening......and a little thing called a "smoke shelf" which makes the draft possible. There is a delightful little book entitled The forgotten art of building a good fireplace, if you ever get a chance to read it I belive you will enjoy it very much.
 

RBHarter

West Central AR
Now I need that book .

Got that far yesterday ........one piece left to finish the 8×20 , but the boss was beat . I think it had something to do with being the go fer' .......maybe nookieitus ....
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Makes me look forward to getting cement down and my place going .
I think about the time we buy the cement we're going to get a gas saw mill too . 1x slab oak should pay for stuff pretty quick .
 

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smokeywolf

Well-Known Member
The building which housed the 6,000+ square foot Metro Goldwyn Mayer Metal Shops was originally a daylight shooting stage located where the Thalberg Building parking lot is now situated. The building is steel girder with the majority of the walls small panes of glass.
Told to me by some of the old timers on the lot; in 1923 the building was disassembled and moved to the back lot adjacent to what is known as the "Culver Gate" on the Culver Blvd. side of the studio.

Having spent most of 20 years working in that building, I always marveled at the construction of the second floor or mezzanine that was installed sometime after the move. The floor joists were rough sawn 2x10s on 12" centers. Given those and the steel beams that made up the support and framework, you could have parked a tank on the second floor.
In 1994 during the Northridge Earthquake, the floor shook enough to cause all 5 of the knee mills to walk 8 inches to over well over a foot across the floor. The building sustained no damage whatsoever.
 

Pistolero

Well-Known Member
Ian, I knew of the Rumsford design, and knew that this was one. My father taught me that.
I did not know that there was a book on it, figured it was somewhat of a lost art.

Found an article on line just now. A 36" wide Rumsford is 14 inches deep.....about what I remembered.
Throat is only 4x20, too.

It was an amazing fireplace, though. Heated really well.

Interesting page. there is a company that makes all the key pieces in fireproof clay
and they are certified as good as EPA Phase II stoves.

http://www.rumford.com/inst.html

Bill
 
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