so waht ya doin today?

Rick

Moderator
Staff member
Only lanolin I've ever bought was from the drug store. Medical grade, not a clue if that would make a difference.
 

Intheshop

Banned
The notion.... which I didn't come up with.... is;

You're sposed to use a lube that won't trash the bushes. If it wasn't for that,heck.... we have buttloads of lube.Prolly use high$$ M/C chain lube?

So is the drug store Lanoline what's used for bullet lube?
 
F

freebullet

Guest
It comes in a paste too.

The kind Rick mentioned is a liquid. &+$$, simply more purified.

Same stuff though, the paste is fine for bullet lube & melts easily. The downfall is, in case lube, the solids don't emulsify & makes coagulated turds that clog a sprayer head. The liquid is purified more, is already a liquid, & don't clog a sprayer.

For the clippers, I'd simply use olive oil, works on my machetes & cleavers.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
Get anhydrous lanolin. It has most of the water removed and it is a better lube. The non-anhydrous is different in texture and won’t be as good as a lube. Definitively don’t want anything but anhydrous for bullet lube.
Anhydrous lanolin is excellent for protecting chaffed or chapped skin. It is also tenacious as hell and doesn’t easily wash off. Great film strength which is why it makes a good case lube.
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
your already chopping at the bushes with some high speed shears, a little oil of some sort ain't gonna matter.
I'd use vegetable oil if I was sweating the bushes caring one way or the other.
otherwise they'd get sprayed with the first can of whichever oil stuff I grabbed in the shed, maybe even wd-40 from time to time.
 

Bret4207

At the casting bench in the sky. RIP Bret.
I'm supposed to be getting a Fluid Film spray set up here next month, depending on what emergencies crop up. It comes highly recommended for rust protection here in the rust belt. The wifes pretty little Jeep Wrangler is the main target, but I hope to stave off some rust on my F350 and everything else too. Lanolin has a number of uses, but the sheep population is down big time so it gets expensive.
 

Rick

Moderator
Staff member
I've been rehearsing my giggling for this morning just to make sure I get it right. This morning I get to spend 2 - 2 1/2 hours under the knife at the dentist office. Oh joy. :sigh:
 

Intheshop

Banned
Even considering chainsaws,I don't cut green wood. The problem with using certain lubes on blades,and big honkin bandsaws come into focus here.... is green wood,or bushes.

There's the old adage,"any lube is better than no lube"..... well maybe,maybe not.If that lube reacts to heat AND green wood funk,it can turn into quite the mess. With basically sap welding itself to the blades. I put some kitchen canola oil in a empty water bottle yesterday, poked a tiny hole in the top,squirted on the hedge wacker blade. Uhhh,sorta welded the funk.

Am going to get a can of Fluid Film and see how it does. I'm going to be the one who has to sharpen this thing,no big deal,it'll be sharper than stock. But I sure as heck am not going to use sumthin that makes the job harder( green $hit welded to the blades).

Will also,in a positive moving fwd position, be looking for lanoline. Not so much cause of being cheaper...... no,it sounds like something that is nice to have on hand(ha).
 

KeithB

Resident Half Fast Machinist
For what it's worth, I have a silicon skin oil that I get from my prostheticist that he sells as a lube for the inside of limb sockets so they will slide all the way on. I don't use it with my current socket, it fits up differently, so I have been using it to lube other things. It's wonderful for lubing my hair clippers, seems to work OK on guns, and I plan to try it on a couple of mics in the shop. It's clear and light and doesn't seem to dry up and cake with junk like a lot of oils.

Probably nothing special but I have a couple of leftover bottles to try out on things.
 

Intheshop

Banned
Shrubs,scrubs.... back to shooting.

I know,only change one thing at time on load development, got it. But then,never claimed to be some statistical analyst. I'll change everything if need be,looking for bugholes. So,don't know if it was...

Less bullet tension...new expander spudnik

Straighter,happier bullet seating... which is effected by above,and RCBS/AB die.

Barrel getting broke in... shooting and cleaning with JB compound

Having a good day...

Edit to add; fire formed case,2nd loading

Bumping up powder load.... hitting a sweet spot.

Guess what? Don't care..... hit a sweet spot and the ADL is getting durn close to bugholes. Put it this way,if a fly lands on the 100 yd target.... first shot from a squeaky clean barrel,I wouldn't bet on his future. 3 shot cloverleafs,in the black 1/2" sharpie dots.
 
Last edited:

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
Got a new 220V outlet and 4 more 110V outlets in the garage. The mill DRO and X axis power feed will need 2 of the 110V outlets some I have a couple to spare. One will likely get used for a new overhead light by the mill.

Rick, how is that mouth feeling?
 

KeithB

Resident Half Fast Machinist
You're probably OK, a DRO shouldn't draw 15A. nor should a power feed. Most LED lights don't draw a lot of current either. A short extension cord with multiple outlets for the low current devices might be all you need.
 

Rick

Moderator
Staff member
Rick, how is that mouth feeling?

Holy shit what was I thinking going in there? Got script for hydrocodone, I don't take that crap but certainly thinking about it now. No way to get to the pharmacy now anyway, The drugs they gave wearing off, still spitting out blood and a mouth full of stitches. Can't eat anything, tried nice soft canned pears, no way. Can't even sleep. Rick is currently not a happy camper.

On the bright side I was done in an hour and a half, not 2 1/2 like they said. On the downside, $6000 for an hour and a half does nothing to make me feel any better. :( There goes my shop building for another year. :(