so waht ya doin today?

Intheshop

Banned
I may need to start actually sizing the body of this bullet. There's a little,less than .001" out if roundness. It shows up,along with neck thickness of unturned brass. That's how straight these are coming off the presses.
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
the lube suspends the fouling and moves it out the barrel.
I think changing or modifying the lube your using is definitely worth trying.
when the barrels condition is in balance long, long, long strings are easily possible.
the trick is having that balance from shot 1 through shot 100.
 

Intheshop

Banned
I've read Glen Fryxell articles,over and over through the years,great stuff.Just read his,what does lube do again.

Am not opposed to trying a different lube,heck it was you Fiver who told me to add more BW to my 50/50 lube(BW Vaseline) that has worked great for 40 years.But when the CDL '06 literally blew it right past the bullet at JB velocity and pressure. But that's a .30 and there's a lot more lube capacity.

The blow by don't really happen,as bad with jacked up 22-250 loads... to the point that 50/50 works,what little there is. BUT,that barrel had seen right many JB's and H380 in it's day. This new barrel and I,have not gotten quite to the velocity of the 250.... yet. But it is new,may make a difference?

I'm not really complaining about the fouling as it ain't, that bad. But at this stage of barrel life it may be at issue? dunno?

My gut says that if it isn't a rough bore condition,then it "might" be the Vaseline not playing nice.What can I swap out for it,and still be a two part,3-1 with BW? Some kind of synthetic grease?
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
synthetic isn't necessary.
a partial swap or a full swap for a 3-1 mix of lithium grease isn't going to change 'things' too much.
but it will change how the lube functions.
you'll have a slower reaction to pressure and a later/longer flow point, but you will have a greater reaction to ambient temperature on the upper end.

the strange thing is that the Vaseline and the Li grease both have the same base ingredient.
 

Bret4207

At the casting bench in the sky. RIP Bret.
That would never be a game here. The HVAC is whole house forced air AC and very much needed at least 8 months of the year not three weeks. The same unit is also heat for the other 4 months. Keeping that unit happy is quite important.

I figured someone would catch the "3 weeks" bit. I understand, having spent quite a bit of time in Yuma, Az. Up here the thing is heat. We've already had a fire going this season, so figure September to late May/Early June for the heating season! It's really no wonder people here complain when the temp gets above 85F or so, they just aren't used to it! I love it personally. I haven't really been warm since I got back from Okinawa in '82/'83.
 

Bret4207

At the casting bench in the sky. RIP Bret.
Going to the deer lease tomorrow. Being retired is great!
Need to go buy some Crimson Clover to plant and some corn for the feeders. Anyone hunt in east Texas sandy soil? I've never had luck with clover and need some advise on till free planting and fertilizing.

I don't know jack about Texas soils, but any clover takes at least 3-4 months to get a good root built into the ground. I think last spring would have been the time to plant.
 

Hawk

Well-Known Member
I've tried fall planting, mid Sept to early Oct and early to mid March. No joy. Of course the hogs may have a little something to do with it. When we've tried to cultuvate it, the hogs act like it's their personal playground.
Going to plant some tomorrow and save some seed for the spring.
Seems like some little tiny sprigs come up in the fall then disappear.
 

Hawk

Well-Known Member
From everything I have read, they say in warmer, southern climates to plant crimson clover about 6 weeks before the first frost. It's suppose to be pretty cold tolerant, but I'm just going by what I've read.
My biggest problem, everyone talks about adding lime and fertilizer. I've never had the soil tested and don't even know if I need to.
 

Ian

Notorious member
Burr clover stays green all winter here, fwiw. Most of Texas has extremely alkaline soil, so always consider the source when lime is recommended.

If the pigs eat what you plant, return the favor.. wild pig is some if the best eating around.
 

Intheshop

Banned
Will leave the lube as is..... shooting some fire formed 223's tomorrow. Barrel is probably speeding up,just settling in. The cold bore 1st shots have been peachy. And I passed a node somewhere around the starting load.... which prolly puts me in death valley right about now.

Was playing on the Berger bullet site tonight plugging in numbers on their stability "slide rule" calculator. 12 twist,57g, .60" long, the stability goes up with velocity woohoo.

Haven't even put one over a chrono yet? The target holes are round. Earlier load (lower vel)held up decent enough in the wind.No leading. Barrel wants to shoot,because usually these cheaparse,skinny barrels when heated with JB level loads are doing well to get through a 3 shot group. It isn't "always" the load.... my Varget load in the 7-08,the barrel is dang hot after 5 shots. But for 3.... oh heck yeah.

So this new 223 has shown a little promise in that respect,going demonstrably better with more shots.Barrel gets pretty warm,quickly,but not like the 7.

Powder fouling,about the same.... maybe a touch more than what it would be with starting JB loads? Just have to keep on top of it.
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
you can always do a little hands on experiment with the lube.
take a nickel size piece of your lube push a dent into it in your palm and just fold a dab [2-3%] of grease/lanolin/ester-100 oil into it then keep folding it until it takes the addition.
then hand lube a few of your already prepped bullets after wiping the lube out of them first.
that way you can do a 10 rd test and see what the difference is.

a small viscosity change can make a big difference.
 

Ian

Notorious member
If you use ester oil, just show the closed bottle to the lump of lube and it will be enough.

And here I was thinking I was cheating by only using a 9-twist barrel..LOL!
 

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
I wouldn’t even show the bottle of ester oil to the lump of lube, just mention it exists and the lube already has plenty.
Now take the rest of the ester oil and use it as a spruce plate lube.
 

Rick

Moderator
Staff member
Now take the rest of the ester oil and use it as a spruce plate lube.

Hhmmm . . . Seems Brad is still using wooden sprue plates. Brad, how long do they last before burning up and do they help flux the alloy going into the mold? :confused:
 

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
Mine used to be ratty looking. The oil helps spruce them up. That is why I refer to them as a spruced plate.

That is my answer and I’m sticking to it.
 

Ian

Notorious member
I have to re-type and reject three auto-edit suggestions, then override the spellcheck just to type "sprue" on my fone unless I turn all that crap off, which I usually do so my typos can only be blamed on me.
 

Rick

Moderator
Staff member
I have to re-type and reject three auto-edit suggestions, then override the spellcheck just to type "sprue" on my fone unless I turn all that crap off, which I usually do so my typos can only be blamed on me.

Yeah of course but that doesn't make it less funny. :) Again.
 

Intheshop

Banned
Finally got a replacement chuck key that fits the P$W sensitive drillpress that took up residence in loading room.Which means the 7mm HP fixture design is back on track. Well,sort of..... no switch on it. Which is a personal part peeve,plugging and unplugging a pce of equipment gets the blood pressure up in short order. It's on today's menu.

Once it has a switch it's a quick trip to where I can mill bullet bases..... so the 225-55 bullet can get shorter. That mould leaves tiny imperfections on some bullet bases,which transfers through GC,which isn't good,,which is easily corrected.

The fixture "should" allow either end of bullet to be presented to cutter.... so,mill base,flip bullet,toss a top section on fixture,and HP. Now it is shorter,lighter,and balance can be changed..... faster than it takes to write about it, haha.
 

Bret4207

At the casting bench in the sky. RIP Bret.
From everything I have read, they say in warmer, southern climates to plant crimson clover about 6 weeks before the first frost. It's suppose to be pretty cold tolerant, but I'm just going by what I've read.
My biggest problem, everyone talks about adding lime and fertilizer. I've never had the soil tested and don't even know if I need to.

Who is telling you to plant the clover 6 weeks before frost? If it's the seed company and they are talking about using it as a forage crop, as opposed to deer bait field, then it's meant to grow and establish itself for harvest. If it's as a deer bait field, then it's a different goal.