Perhaps I should have added a caveat to my comments about how straight the holes are tapped in the older guns for tang sights. That caveat would be, "When used with tang sights from the same era."
My goal this Fall is to harvest 3 limits of grey and fox squirrels with my three .25-20's. I have used a Low-Wall with a 3X Malcolm Leatherwood in the past to take a limit a couple of years ago. So yesterday I mounted a new Marble's tang sight on a Model 92 .25-20 and I needed the windage feature in the sight to get my 25 yard zero. My innate prejudice is that the error is in the new sight and not that wonderful Winchester. I really dislike the fact that the sight base rear hole is slotted instead of being made the "right way".
I did experience on disaster in the process. A couple of years ago I was at a flea market at a tractor and steam engine show and there on a table was a box of brand new, unprimed Western .25-20 brass! There was also a box of Australian .25-20 SS brass, a few assorted jacketed bullets and about 1,200 small rifle primers. I scarfed it all up and shared the SS brass with a buddy who has one in a Low-Wall. The point of this back ground was that I lost one of those new W-W brass yesterday! I hold my hand over the top of the action when I eject the fired case. The Winchesters ejection is enthusiastic to say the least. In a moment of carelessness I missed one and it sailed over my head and landed behind me in the grass and I cannot find it! One lousy but brand new case and it bugs me to see 49 in the ammo box. Sometimes I think I aint just right in the head.
I got the rest of the .22 drop data done yesterday morning, starting at 180 and going out to 225. Miraculously, the wind that had started to pick up at 9:30, died around 10:30. Little yellow leaves from Honey Locusts were fluttering straight down. That made the groups smaller, and corrections easer. Here is what I can share with you. Shooting Eley Target and Wolf Match Target standard velocity .22 ammo that chronographs right around 1,080 fps. Starting at 50 yards and going out in 5 yard increments, measured with a 100' steel tape. At each distance I pushed a large pole barn spike into the dirt and spay painted them with a white base coat and then hit them with blaze orange. My targets at hanging on 3/8" steel rod shepherd's crooks of various heights. At 50 and 55 yards the targets are 4" discs painted white with a 1" orange dot. Then a 6" disc with a 2" dot, after that I have ten 14" tall by 6" wide oblongs with a hole at the top and 2" dots out to 100 yards, 3" dots to 190 yards, and 5" dots for 200 and beyond. I have stencils made for the dots so I can repaint the targets as they get shot up. I quickly ran into an interesting dilemma. I obviously need to stagger the targets so they are all visible. Well darn it, get behind the rifle and after about 120 yards, just try and figure out which one is next. Even worse after about 160 yards. The solution was to take a magic marker and write the distance at the top of the target at the hanger hole. Thank goodness I do this on my own home range and can just jump in the Polaris Ranger to buzz back to the house to get whatever I need or forgot.
Now for the drop data. For a 50 yard zero, make no correction for 55 yards. From 60 yards to 150 yards come up .2 Mil for every 5 yards. Starting at 150 yards, come up .3 Mil for every 5 yards. That held true to 225 yards which was as far as I could go. I had to stop to move targets twice to get all the way back, and I had to repaint etc. Tedious but still satisfying work, that I hope someone else can use. I have seen trajectory charts and have printed off a couple and boy are they close to my numbers. Perhaps I simply could have relied on them, but empirical data has a certain appeal to me.