9.3x57

RBHarter

West Central AR
I once dreamed of a 9×57 with a double set trigger but when the time came and the stars aligned ........

Now I have a real Gew 98 with a Jeager trigger and a ream away from 280 Rem and a Santa Barbra 98 in 358 Win with a light crisp 2 stage GI . The bottom metal is a really nice inside the bow release ........ The 280 is in a stock that feels good but aesthetically is something of a mud fence . The 358 is too long but the MV and targets say it's perfect , the stock is quite dated and a little long but it looks good . The floor plate drops out when I hit that load point whether it's my finger or recoil acceleration I can't say .


I guess what I'm saying is that you may have paid to much for "the one" but all isn't lost . The smith gave you the worst case firewood stock , rookie error trigger damage , bid . I've looked at a couple of double set triggers . Their simple machines , wedge's and levers with a spring or 2 . (It's been a while and they were TC) unless something was cut deep and or completely out of geometry it's not a loss just a putzing around , the solution came in a dream project . The too thin stock is a challenge but wrist breaks are repaired every day and modern polymer/reenforced epoxy/bedding products are amazing stuff .

You want to know what really kicked me in the gut ? The SB 98 came with the 700 styled bolt shroud and the Fajin stock is inleted for the 700 side safety . The triggers , even the cheap ones , with the top safety were almost $300 so I swapped the bolt for the GI shroud and safety .......weeks later , like 21 days , massive price drop and I would have spent , at that moment , $90 like spitting out a cough goober . But I didn't have the bolt , the barrel was headspaced for the GI , the 5th coat of tung was on the stock , all the time was already spent on the trigger and sear . I have a 50% early 70s walnut 98 Sporter stock . I don't have the just skill set but one of these days I'll sit down with the with the Gew 98 1916 DWM and lay out the beaver tail bench fore end and cut some rosewood caps .........or I'll bugger it up completely .
 

todd

Active Member
nowadays, because of my stroke(right arm/leg disabled), i lack the metal skills to install a double trigger. but i like'em!!!!!!
 

L Ross

Well-Known Member
The 9.3x57 shieked up a bit. We are sick, my shoot got cancelled and this lovely Mauser is across the State at my Smith's.
 

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todd

Active Member
i got 9.3x57 back from my gunsmith on tuesday. being one hand, cock on close just ain't fer me. now its a cock on open. he ordered a dayton cocking piece and striker spring and put them on. but he had a problem. he has done many dayton's pieces, but not the husky m46. to make a long story short, he had to cut about 1/4" off the firing pin.
 

Bisley

Active Member
So here's my situation with regard to the 9.3x57 as per the discussion:
In the mid 1980s, Dad bought a $125.00 (including shipping to Alaska, as I recall) '98 Mouser, all matching, in 8mm. We cleaned it with diesel oil (not gasoline) to remove the packing grease which filled the barrel and action, very effectively preserving the fine metal, I might add. Then we noticed something. From the breach, the barrel looked clean and smooth. From the muzzle, it looked rough. We determined the roughness at the end of the barrel consisted of chatter marks -- a sign of poor tooling, it seemed. I'm not a gunsmith.

The rifle has sat unfired for almost 35 years. Would I be money ahead to trade it in its current condition for a 9.3x57, or should I have it rebored/rebarrelled? I have plenty of time to consider this.
 

L Ross

Well-Known Member
So here's my situation with regard to the 9.3x57 as per the discussion:
In the mid 1980s, Dad bought a $125.00 (including shipping to Alaska, as I recall) '98 Mouser, all matching, in 8mm. We cleaned it with diesel oil (not gasoline) to remove the packing grease which filled the barrel and action, very effectively preserving the fine metal, I might add. Then we noticed something. From the breach, the barrel looked clean and smooth. From the muzzle, it looked rough. We determined the roughness at the end of the barrel consisted of chatter marks -- a sign of poor tooling, it seemed. I'm not a gunsmith.

The rifle has sat unfired for almost 35 years. Would I be money ahead to trade it in its current condition for a 9.3x57, or should I have it rebored/rebarrelled? I have plenty of time to consider this.
A. How does shoot or is it still unfired since you got it? B. Is it in full military configuration yet?

Myself, I'd shoot it and if indeed it shoots poorly I'd take advantage of the renewed collectability in Mil-Surps, flip it into something you'd like better.
 

Bisley

Active Member
A. How does shoot or is it still unfired since you got it? B. Is it in full military configuration yet?

Myself, I'd shoot it and if indeed it shoots poorly I'd take advantage of the renewed collectability in Mil-Surps, flip it into something you'd like better.
I fired it with mil-surp ammo they year we got it. It fit, fed, fired and functioned perfectly, and was accurate enough to hit 100-yard targets with the military issue sights. It remains in military configuration, as purchased. No aftermarket or reproduction parts.

If I do keep it, I would probably try paper-patching to load for it, owing to the rough barrel at the muzzle. At present, I have no ammunition, molds or dies for it.
 

CZ93X62

Official forum enigma
Some observations about my rifle in this GREAT caliber.

Overall, it is far more accurate than it needs to be for the range of game it was meant to harvest. Paper-patched Lyman #358430s, plain-based Lyman #336408s, 270 grain Mountain Mold 270 grain flatpoint GC, and Nosler 250 BalTip and 286 grain Partition--all shoot well under 2.0 MOA at 100 and 200 yards, and that 250 BT is a righteous 1.0 MOA bullet. That performance at 2600+ FPS prompted me to start looking in depth at the 30-06's trajectory and velocity performance alongside the 9.3 x 62, and the '06's 180 grain bullet tracks with the 250 grain 9.3mm almost exactly. The 9.3 arrives with half-again more thump, but that 180 grain 30 caliber has a fine reputation in its own right. I am not above lily-gilding.

It is not all wine and roses, though. One bullet that my CZ-550 in 9.3 x 62 REFUSES to shoot well is the caliber's most affordable and most available jacketed bullet--the Speer 270 grain semi-spitzer. Its absolute BEST work was about 2.5" at 100 yards, and more often around 3". Rifles have favorites and bummers, it's just part of the game.
 

todd

Active Member
Some observations about my rifle in this GREAT caliber.

Overall, it is far more accurate than it needs to be for the range of game it was meant to harvest. Paper-patched Lyman #358430s, plain-based Lyman #336408s, 270 grain Mountain Mold 270 grain flatpoint GC, and Nosler 250 BalTip and 286 grain Partition--all shoot well under 2.0 MOA at 100 and 200 yards, and that 250 BT is a righteous 1.0 MOA bullet. That performance at 2600+ FPS prompted me to start looking in depth at the 30-06's trajectory and velocity performance alongside the 9.3 x 62, and the '06's 180 grain bullet tracks with the 250 grain 9.3mm almost exactly. The 9.3 arrives with half-again more thump, but that 180 grain 30 caliber has a fine reputation in its own right. I am not above lily-gilding.

It is not all wine and roses, though. One bullet that my CZ-550 in 9.3 x 62 REFUSES to shoot well is the caliber's most affordable and most available jacketed bullet--the Speer 270 grain semi-spitzer. Its absolute BEST work was about 2.5" at 100 yards, and more often around 3". Rifles have favorites and bummers, it's just part of the game.

i HAD a remington mountain rifle in 30-06 that hated handloads. hornady, speer, sierra...imr, hodgdon...150, 165, 180, 220gr just hated them. but it loved the remington 180gr rn factory loads, 3/4 - 1" at 100 yards(5 shot/bench) the closest i got was a 150gr hornady sp and imr4895 that went 2 1/2 - 2 3/4" at 100 yards(5 shots/bench). i did the changing of the scope mount and bases, scope, from wood stock to "plastic" and i even gave to my late gunsmith to see what was wrong with it. then 3 or 4 weeks later, i go to my gunsmith's and he goes "get it away from me. its cursed!!!!!!"

he checked the bore, crown, chamber, action, bolt, scope, scope mount/bases, imr, hodgdon, alliant, accurate, 150-220gr, hornady, speer, sierra and a whole bunch of other things. in 40+ years he never had a rifle that shot so bad as this. i was to never say to it again or bring it to his shop.

i sold it and i bought the savage m116 in '06.
 

Mowgli Terry

Active Member
I got one of two 9.3 Husqvarna's going. The guns do work very well. One rifle that is doing very well but had a world of old copper fouling. Making brass is on the agenda. Next up is casting bullets. I came a point of not getting concerned about barrel dimensions in foreign firearms. Those dimensions are what they are. The rifle rules.
 
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todd

Active Member
i made brass by necking 8x57 ppu brass up to 9.3x57. it is a little short(.010" i think), but it fits my bill. i heard that you can do a 30-06, but thats my next, next, next project.:rofl: i scrubbed out a krag for 7 days(not consecutively), 8 - 10 hours each day. i'd let it bathe in sweets overnite or two. i had black gunk, copper spirals, black gunk, cupronickel, black gunk, copper, black gunk, some more cupronickel....did i mention black gunk? :headscratch: but the barrel came out clean as a baby's bottom.

i was lucky on the m46, the bore slug was .3665"(i did it twice). i know of a guy that does a .372" boolit for his 9.3x57.
 

Rockydoc

Well-Known Member
last year, i got a husqvarna m46(1937) in 9.3x57. just recently gave her to my gunsmith to d&t, bend the bolt handle and a 2 position safety.

when he's done with it, i just loaded up 280gr fn gc( https://bullshop.weebly.com/-36-caliber-cast-bullets.html ) with 38.0gr of imr4895. the velocity is around(guesstimate) 1700-1800fps. i know i'll have to do some accuracy work, but i don't mind. if the 9.3x57 goes roughly 3" group at 100 yards then i'm done. it will be a close cover deer/black bear rifle.
View attachment 10475View attachment 10476View attachment 10477View attachment 10478View attachment 10479View attachment 10480
on the last picture...
the left cartridge is a 8x57 necked up to 9.3. the right cartridge is a fire formed (9.3x57)
That bolt handle looks already bent.
 

Mowgli Terry

Active Member
I'm not sure we have any real figures on these old rounds. Make your cartridges for the rifle. Thanks for the information. Beats the hell out of reinventing the wheel.

Working on modern guns with powerful solvents looks like layers of copper on top of carbon. I ran a patch through the bore of the 8mm this morning. Out came a patch covered with a thick green goo. The solvent was Hoppe's. I had only fired eighteen rounds of PPU in this rifle.