9.3x57

JustJim

Active Member
i made brass by necking 8x57 ppu brass up to 9.3x57. it is a little short(.010" i think), but it fits my bill. i heard that you can do a 30-06, but thats my next, next, next project.:rofl:
A while back a friend asked if I had an 8x57 form/trim die. I pulled out a spare and sent it off to him, and asked what he was working on. Turns out he was going to form 8x57 from '06 brass, then expand it for his new 9.3x57. I told him to just have the die bored out to 9.3x57, which he did, and now he'll always have a source for brass for his rifle. No reason a guy couldn't scrounge up a forming die, or even a sizing die, for 7x57 or 8x57 and do the same.
 

todd

Active Member
A while back a friend asked if I had an 8x57 form/trim die. I pulled out a spare and sent it off to him, and asked what he was working on. Turns out he was going to form 8x57 from '06 brass, then expand it for his new 9.3x57. I told him to just have the die bored out to 9.3x57, which he did, and now he'll always have a source for brass for his rifle. No reason a guy couldn't scrounge up a forming die, or even a sizing die, for 7x57 or 8x57 and do the same.


ummmmmmmm.......i've done '06 to the 7.65x53, 7, 8 and 9.3x57. all it takes for me is a mini cut off saw and a 8x57 cut off trimming jig. i take the '06 cases thru a lee decapping die, then i use the mini cut off saw and jig. when thats done, i'll deburr and chamfer the case. then i'll use 7, 8, 9.3 x57 fl die. next step is wet tumbling. i'll trim 7, 8 and 9.3x57 and then i'll deburr and chamfer it.


you may have to set the shoulder back. i use a feeler gauge in my shellholder while doing a fl die.
 
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Mowgli Terry

Active Member
More than one way to skin the cat: My small lot of 9.3's were made from once fired PPU 8mm cases. One pass through the Hornady dies With that new style expander ball making cases from 8mm cases not a problem. What I was planning to do is shorten '06 cases. Expand neck to .35 caliber as in 35 Whelen. Next, a pass through the 9.3 dies. Trim and clean up the case neck. I can use my Wilson trimmer for the final trim. Looks like I have a trip to Harbor Freight for a cut-off saw in my future. There's trial and error in play here. In another forum a member shared how he decided on case dimensions from his Norma brass. if that don't work nothing will-right?

I've got some nice 7x57 brass that by some convoluted process make 9.3 brass. That would be finished the day before turned up with a 7mm Mauser rifle. You know how those things go. It's probably impractical to use any case less than 30 caliber neck.
 

todd

Active Member
while you are busy going to HF, get a 2 1/2" swivel table vice. i have to go back to buy it. i've killed many deer with the '06, but it wasn't fer me. i have a whole pile of '06 brass just sitting there, taking up space. i think it was 2007 or 08, i bought a ruger #1 in 270 win. i bought dies and 100 pcs of brass. months go by and then someone told me to take '06 brass to 270. so i did and 25-06 brass too!!!! i ordered 500 pcs '06 once fired brass just before the "pandemic". (we have another one in '22 and '24) now i got the 7.65x53 and 7, 8, 9.3x57 made from '06 brass.

i have a jap type 99 in 30-06. i know all they did to make it '06 from the 7.7 jap was a chamber reaming. i never shot it or bore slugged it. but i think the accuracy of it will be dismal. so it will be rebarreled with either the 375 whelen or (what i want) the 400 whelen-petrov). the 375 whelen is a matter of just necking up the '06. the 400 whelen-petrov is a 400 whelen basic quality cartridges. i don't wanna pay $40/20 pcs and the dies are custom. :sigh: right now, i should just sent to JES Reboring and make it a 338-06 or 9.3x62.


 
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Mowgli Terry

Active Member
This is about my quest. It possible to sail down a rabbit hole getting dies etc. together plus some serious money.
I already have components on hand for a 9.3. I don't think dies would be a problem. Both RCBS and Lee make economical dies for 9.3x62.

I ran into some good stuff on forming cases on Cast Boolits. Forming would be similar to what we do now on 9.3x57. I got tapered expanders in 35 and 366 diameter. I would be necking up a formed 35 Whelen case. I'm looking for some input here.

My guess is the 9.3x62 would be the most economical. This is were I am on my own search. I have a nice Mauser Banner 98 action but would probably look for a donor rifle with longer action. I have to do some homework on this one. The idea is work around expensive heavy duty gunsmithing.
 
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todd

Active Member
have you tried the '03 springfield or '17 enfield? i know that they are expensive, but there may be a sporter or two out there. the type 99 in '06 would relieve you of all that heartache.
 

Mowgli Terry

Active Member
One way to cut to the chase is to use a Shaw barrel for a Savage 110. I ran an estimate yesterday for stainless barrels using Savage contours for 9.3x62. That barrel would run something over $300.00. I already have a wrench. I've done one of these deals building a 257 Roberts using an A&B barrel.

When you start converting any stock military action it gets, to me, into serious money. That would included bolt handle, trigger, and drilling and tapping for scope mount. Using a Savage action would step around these expenses neatly. Many people do not like 110 type actions. There are other alternatives.
 

todd

Active Member
i don't see anything wrong with savage, except the accutrigger. i really despise the accutrigger. i had a savage m12 in 223 that i just sold 3 weeks ago and a m110 in 270 win. and '06 that i sold years ago(needed money for a divorce lawyer).

my gunsmith took my 93 spanish mauser and then he bent the bolt, d&t for scope mount(which he put on), put a 2 position safety and he had a dayton trigger kit(COC to COO) put on(i did the dayton trigger). it was about $115-120 last year. since i had the stroke(right arm/leg are kapoot), i prefer the gunsmith for metal werk. i could do a bend and d&t, but i got rid of them tools years ago. i bought a 6.5x55 swede in the white barrel (numrich) for my 93 mauser. i let my gunsmith have the barrel and the action to put it together and then hot blue it.

i have two 1898 spr armory actions without bolts and 2 stocks to go with them. i'll buy the parts and pieces as soon as i get the money. i won't go there but i have a 95 chilean action, 93 spanish(1916) mauser, venezuelan m30(98 mauser) and a type 99 that needs parts and pieces too.
 

Mowgli Terry

Active Member
Here's the deal. It cost me $100.00 to get a bolt handle correctly welded onto the bolt body. I'm looking at $35.00 per hole for d&T for scope. Good work does not come cheap here. It's not a big deal to come with an older Savage rifle without that worthless trigger. There's no way I can beat using the Savage aftermarket barrels to build up a rifle. My last rifle I had put together was over a $1000.00 with me supplying a converted action less holes for scope base. That's why I am already getting parts together for another rifle using the Savage action.
 

todd

Active Member
i took one rifle to have the handle bent, d&t(i gave him the scope, mounts and rings) and put on a 2 position safety. it costed me $320. to say i floored is an understatement. tho his werk was top notch. i looked around for another gunsmith, which is no easy task, when i found him.

i had a gunsmith right next to me, but he died from cancer. i could walk to his place in about 10 minutes. he taught me alot about gunsmithing, but i was and am a babe in the woods when it came to him. i was/am a shade tree gunsmith.

where he makes the money is a custom gunstock. he'll take a block of wood and turn it into a piece of artwork. i wish i had the skills he has!!! but underneath it all, he luvs 1889 to WW2 rifles.

right now on a semi custom rifle, i have about $80 on the action, $120 for bent bolt handle and d&t and put in a dayton trigger kit, $120 for the 6.5x55 numrich in the white barrel and $260 for the douglas stock. $580 is the cost that i've already put in. i don't know how much to put the barrel in the action, hot blued and put into the stock.

if the 6.5 swede shoots good, i have another 93 spanish mauser that will be a 257 roberts numrich barrel.

to some guys the savage action looks like junk, but they are accurate as heck. i've never had one or know of one that wasn't accurate. if you are looking for rifle that is beautiful, try win m70 pre 64. if your looking for an accurate rifle, the savage m110 will fit your bill and then some.
 

Mowgli Terry

Active Member
I have made up one 110 based rifle with the A&D barrel. The other built up rifles here use converted 98 military actions. I had rather use 98 actions. Using a pre-64 Winchester would make for and expensive proposition upfront. To me, it's not really worth the expense. I've done much of this stuff we are talking about. The plan here is to make a basic shooter. I stay away from using pre-98 actions. Those actions are just fine. It's about personal preference.

As to the Savage action, I'd say the people who call that action junk have not been paying attention what's being going for the in the past thirty years. Ask what these critics have actually done with a Savage action. See what kind of answer you get.

I spoke with gunsmith last night. The 98 based 9.3x57 now has a recoil pad that brings the pull to 14". The front sight has been fixed. I checked with him on drilling and tapping the receiver. He charges $20.00 per hole. I have not decided what to do next. My gunsmithing money has been spend for a time.

I did chronograph a few rounds from the 94 based 9.3x57. Those rounds using IMR 4064 were doing 1900 fps. The gun continues to shoot well. I see the round as being in the same category as the 35 Remington caliber.

Added: Cast bullets are in the plans. Right now it's getting the rifles shooting.
 
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L Ross

Well-Known Member
I have never thought of the Savage 110 series as junk, just homely. The bolt hanging out of the rear and what looks like a lug nut holding the barrel on is aesthetically off putting to my eye.

I also understand that beauty is as beauty does, and there is no arguing that those Savages can perform.
 

Mowgli Terry

Active Member
They have a slick nut now . Your machinist can always fit a barrel to bottom on the receiver face sans the B nut all together .
Got a Shaw barrel for a 110 in 458 Magnum that breaches as you describe. I was made for one of my mentors who is now deceased. The idea was to get a left handed bolt action 45-70 using lead bullets. He wanted rounds to feed through the magazine. Check out how many rifles now show up with a collar. Now that Remington is gone it will be Savage and Ruger. I resist the temptation to build up an elephant gun.
 

Mowgli Terry

Active Member
9.3x57 Update: I selected that load of 44 grs of IMR 4064 and the 286gr, Hornady bullet. Looks like that load is good for 1900 fps. There is no problem with this load. Brass looked OK. Not bad for a rifle built in 1931. The other 9.3 is ready to go with new crown and recoil pad to get 14" LOP.
 
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todd

Active Member
i took my m46 9.3x57 up to 45.0gr of imr4895 with 286gr prvi rn. the rifle was built in 1936. 44.0 gr of imr4895 you start to feel the recoil.
 

L Ross

Well-Known Member
Well my 9.3x57 came home yesterday. Been gone since late May when bought/traded for it at my .22 shoot. It has been done for a long time, but then Sue and I got sick, then my buddy the smith got sick and time passed.

Boy this thing is light, and very cool. Raised rib on octagon to round barrel, two leaf rear sight, double set triggers, a smidge of engraving. When I got it it came with Hornady dies and 100 rounds of cast bullet reloads featuring commercial .366" 285 grain bullets, 16.0 grains of Trail Boss and da ta da dat ta da, Norma brand new brass! I put up the Oehler 35P and found that combo goes 1,200 fps. Even at that a 12" gong at 80 yards jumps hard when hit. I imagine the original factory ammo in this thing would be flat out unpleasant.

The lands are bright, the grooves are dark. The front sight has a narrow blade with a small brass insert that glares badly in the sun. I had a 5 shot group that was 1 1/2" wide but 5" tall. When these rounds are shot up there will be no more TB used in it. I suppose I need to buy a mould after I do some slugging and pound casting. If I were to line up about 6 deer in a row the 285 grain bullet may have some utility, but I'm guessing I can get by with less mass.

I'll probably take a deer or two with it. I plan on using this one and a Winchester 1886 in .33 both with cast in rotation this Fall. Then it will most likely languish in the safe with all the other great ideas and impulse purchases I've made over the years.
 

todd

Active Member
great job!!!!!!

i couldn't see the dang front sight, so i (meaning my gunsmith) d&t and mounted a scope. if you are hunting deer under 125+/- yards Dan (Bull Shop) makes a 275gr wfn gc boolit(used to be mountain moulds:( but he retired). i take a 39.0gr of imr4895(i really have chrony it) and from what i experienced(1 doe at 50+/- yards/15 bhn), the deer will go drt. i think that its velocity is around 1700-1800fps, but i'm not sure.

the 280gr fn gc is actually a rn. i bought it and forster hp kit.
 

L Ross

Well-Known Member
Not a 9.3 but an 8x57, but what a lovely example of a pre war commercial light hunting rifle. I've always wanted a butter knife bolt handle again. I had one briefly but the previous owner wanted it back for sentimental reasons. So when a friend rescued this from a small town gun show at a reasonable price then texted me and I couldn't resist. This will be nice as I have a lot of brass, several moulds, dies, and even a Free Chex III check maker in 32.
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