fiver
Well-Known Member
yeah jump is jump to touching metal.
there's other ways to center things etc.
but a jump is generally used with a slightly faster powder.
kind of like jumping a full copper bullet works best with a jump.
the cast bullet design may like some jump [or there ain't no choice like in an AR] a faster powder and a bit more strength within the alloy.
for instance.
in my 8 and 9 twist AR's.
i shoot the rcbs 0-55s bullet, i use LC cases with .0015 neck tension set with a lee squeeze die, my alloy is right about 4% tin and 6% antimony, i size to 226 [227 is as big as you can go] and dump 22.5grs of IMR-4895 in the case. [bullets are weight sorted]
now i could go a touch softer and use H-335 but i have to drop back to around 19.5grs to get the best accuracy.
maybe could do a bit better with the 335 if i could get the bullet across that nato throat and start the alignment better.
there's other ways to center things etc.
but a jump is generally used with a slightly faster powder.
kind of like jumping a full copper bullet works best with a jump.
the cast bullet design may like some jump [or there ain't no choice like in an AR] a faster powder and a bit more strength within the alloy.
for instance.
in my 8 and 9 twist AR's.
i shoot the rcbs 0-55s bullet, i use LC cases with .0015 neck tension set with a lee squeeze die, my alloy is right about 4% tin and 6% antimony, i size to 226 [227 is as big as you can go] and dump 22.5grs of IMR-4895 in the case. [bullets are weight sorted]
now i could go a touch softer and use H-335 but i have to drop back to around 19.5grs to get the best accuracy.
maybe could do a bit better with the 335 if i could get the bullet across that nato throat and start the alignment better.