Shooting shack construction underway!
- Thread starter Ian
- Start date
fiver
Well-Known Member
I probably used the same thing Rick did on my porch then.
I left little gaps because I knew it was gonna see food and drinks spilled all over it.
Trex was the name but the price on that stuff just about doubled this spring and is probably going up as we speak.
I run it on/across 16" centers, and tried a couple of gap widths [it isn't really supposed to have any] and a carpenters pencil worked out to be the perfect gap.
any more and it was kind of springy to walk on, any less and there wasn't much of a gap for the G-kid to lose things through.
I also used their screws they penetrate the deck and use a star bit to drive them.
I left little gaps because I knew it was gonna see food and drinks spilled all over it.
Trex was the name but the price on that stuff just about doubled this spring and is probably going up as we speak.
I run it on/across 16" centers, and tried a couple of gap widths [it isn't really supposed to have any] and a carpenters pencil worked out to be the perfect gap.
any more and it was kind of springy to walk on, any less and there wasn't much of a gap for the G-kid to lose things through.
I also used their screws they penetrate the deck and use a star bit to drive them.
Mine isn't the Trex brand which is about half again as expensive. Same stuff though. I used a small finish nail for spacing, not much of a gap at all. not even what they recommend but it's enough for water to flow freely through which is all I wanted. Stuff isn't cheap but never will I be out there sanding, staining, sealing. Pressure wash it a couple of times a year and it's good to go. Wouldn't need to wash it that often except for it being uncovered and of course muddy paw prints.
No exposed screw heads on mine. It has a cut down both sides and a stainless U clip goes into the edge of the first board, then a stainless deck screw through the clip and into the joist. Next board slides up to the first and the other side of the clip goes inside that edge. Neither the clips or the screws are cheap but then rust is not your friend. The deck is remarkably solid and quite permanent, except for the pressure washing forever maintenance free.
No exposed screw heads on mine. It has a cut down both sides and a stainless U clip goes into the edge of the first board, then a stainless deck screw through the clip and into the joist. Next board slides up to the first and the other side of the clip goes inside that edge. Neither the clips or the screws are cheap but then rust is not your friend. The deck is remarkably solid and quite permanent, except for the pressure washing forever maintenance free.
Winelover
North Central Arkansas
My composite decking is made by the same manufacture of a lot of PVC pipe. Happens to be based out of Michigan. It's T&G with drainage built in.
www.genovationsdeck.com
PVC Decking | Genovations
Genovations PVC decking is lighter, foot for foot, than most competing deck boards and comes with a lifetime warranty.
Ian
Notorious member
The wall logs are mortised and the floor logs just sit down in the saddles.
The floor logs are level to 1/16" end to end and don't dip or rise more than 3/16" so I'm just going to run a bead of liquid nails on top of each log to fill the small gaps and drop the plywood down on top of it.
The floor logs are level to 1/16" end to end and don't dip or rise more than 3/16" so I'm just going to run a bead of liquid nails on top of each log to fill the small gaps and drop the plywood down on top of it.
I would suggest this. Foams and fills any gaps. But only if you never ever want to remove the plywood. If you use this put it on the logs especially in the low spots, place plywood on top and place some weight on the plywood till it sets up.
F
freebullet
Guest
I'd consider 1/2" treated..but 2 layers with the seams staggered. Sometimes can catch on sale, almost never see the 3/4 on sale.
The reason I'd do 2 is because treated plywood has a real tendency to warp & get wavey. 2 layers with seams opposite helps keeper flat.
3m 5200 is some forever marine grade adhesive. Don't know that you'd need anything more than outdoor construction adhesive though.
Stellar work on those joists, but we knew you'd do it well.
I wonder what uv stabilizing they do on the pvc stuff. Left in the sun pvc gets brittle purty quick otherwise.
The reason I'd do 2 is because treated plywood has a real tendency to warp & get wavey. 2 layers with seams opposite helps keeper flat.
3m 5200 is some forever marine grade adhesive. Don't know that you'd need anything more than outdoor construction adhesive though.
Stellar work on those joists, but we knew you'd do it well.
I wonder what uv stabilizing they do on the pvc stuff. Left in the sun pvc gets brittle purty quick otherwise.
JonB
Halcyon member
I would use the standard outdoor construction adhesive and screws/nails, I've found it to have plenty of adhesiveness...and if you ever need to remove part of the floor, it'll be possible.
I've used the gorilla glue stuff, it works great for FOREVER connections.
I've used the gorilla glue stuff, it works great for FOREVER connections.
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Bret4207
At the casting bench in the sky. RIP Bret.
I see an electric chainsaw in the back ground. Were it me I'd use this as an excuse to buy a cheapie Harbor Freight power plane, set her for 1/16", plug 'er in and make one pass over the lot. Make 2 passes if the OCD kicks in. Shouldn't be any gaps after that and no need for sticky stuff. Pick up a second set of blades when you buy the planer and the next time a door doesn't quite fit you got something to do the hard part.
Ian
Notorious member
I just bought that saw Saturday evening, it's been great for this project, fairly quiet and no pulling a rope every time I go back and forth between chisel and saw. I may look for a power plane, that's one tool I don't have and could sure have used a time or two. I wouldn't want to go after these semi-fossilized poles with a $400 log slick.
No Gorilla Glue for this project, like Jon said, construction adhesive.....this is what it's made for.
No Gorilla Glue for this project, like Jon said, construction adhesive.....this is what it's made for.