I am back. Thanks for your input. Since I last posted, I did the following. I took what ingots I had and separated them into three lots from soft, medium, and hardest based on the pencil scratch test. Then, I used the softest alloy to cast hundreds of .45 and .38 bullets for consistency. I have some left to cast 9-122 TC bullets. I plan to cast 9-122 bullets using some medium and hard alloy tested lots and compare test loads between them later. For now, I'll use the medium and hardest lead ingots to cast 9mm and .40cal bullets with the higher chamber pressures. More importantly, I'll have a consistent alloy for the brass/primer/powder combination for the best accuracy.
While I haven't done such a test, I am guessing that different alloy bullets shoot like different factory bullets like Speer and Winchester and Hornady of the same weight and same powder charge, case, primer.
I don't have much range time and have to ponder over your experienced advice. Using my knowledge to understand what all of you are saying, an undersized bullet at the worse is like a bullet being shot through a tube. As the diameter grows, it catches on the rifling and the rifling acts like a cheese grater. The burning powder and hot gases soften the lead and makes things worse. Eventually, bullet size is large enough so it obturates and deforms into the rifling. This holds the bullet in place so the bullet follows the channel (rifling) down the barrel. As pressure picks up, the bullet continues to deform to a point where there could possibly be leading (rifles?). This can be limited when gas checks are used because the copper base distributes the force like comparing kicking a cardboard box vs kicking a plywood plate that's been attached to the cardboard box. Even if the lead doesn't rub off in the barrel at this point, it deforms too much and accuracy suffers. If the lead alloy is harder, I need more powder to deform the bullet to fit the rifling.
Then there is PC. To me, PC is not a lube. It's more like a plated bullet except the plating is a shell of paint that encompasses the lead. During the painting process, the paint is melted into the lead molecule surface during the baking process. That's why when you hammer it, the paint doesn't come off. It's like leading a car to cover dents in Autobody, the lead molecules is soldered to the steel. My big problem here is that a thin coating of paint DOES rub off after I seat a bullet and remove it. Does that mean that there is exposed lead in my barrel? Well, the bullet is sized to my barrel so maybe the exposed lead bullet isn't noticed because of the fit.
So, my question here is am I on the right track? Brett, I want to experiment with your soft lead advice using the alloys I mentioned above and ( just remembering), some .22lr lead too to compare.
Thanks all